The Hirota Tsumugi Blog
- 2020.12.21
- Surikomi-kasuri / A Disappearing Craftsmanship from Yuki-tsumugi textile tradition
The traditional Yuki-tsumugi silk production consists of multiple steps, which are a complete division of labor, involving different artisans at different stages (in total there are more than 20 different stages). If one of the experts retired, it is not replaceable. In this Covid-19 pandemic situation, the production rate has dramatically decreased. We are again about to lose one of precious traditions.
We cannot expect a multi-, cross- skilled artisan in the Yuki-tsumugi production. Because each processes are extremely, highly professionalized. In this way, Yuki-tsumugi is unparalleled to other weaving traditions where one artisan sometimes responsible for the several steps.
That’s it why Yuki tsumugi is considered as a king of tsumugi in Japan.
According to the design sketch, the artisan are carefully marking by black ink in order to paint colors afterwards. A process of Surikomi Kasuri.
Now, one of the most important processes of the Yuki-tsumugi ikat making, called “Surikomi Kasuri” is at a risk of dying out.
We are now losing the opportunity to see the very intimate kasuri ikat patterns of Yuki-tsumugi, such as tiny Kikko-kasuri or Jyuji-kasuri.
The Kikko-kasuri Yuki-tsumugi. Very elaborate Surikomi-kasuri technique are used all through the fabric.
Beautiful pattern made by Surikomi-kasuri.
Surikomi-kasuri is chosen to be used for white or lighter color fabrics.
Very intricate Jyuji-kasuri (tiny cross ikat).
There are two different Kasuri(ikat)-making from Yuki-tsumugi; (1)Kukuri and (2) Surikomi. (1)Kukuri is a ikat resist dyeing technique. (2)Surikomi is not resist dyeing, but directly paint colors on yarns. Surikomi-kasuri technique enable more intricate pattern than Kukuri technique.
Surikomi is extremely daunting and intense manual task. Following the sketch of the pattern, using a brush to mark with black ink on silk yarns, and then paint colors on each of the marking.
At the peak of Yuki-tsumugi production and craftsmanship, we see this masterpiece below, colorful 160 Kikko and Jyuji kasuri combination pattern. Today we could not see this grade of Yuki-tsumugi newly woven anymore. This is a phantom precious textile.
160 Kikko-surikomi Yuki-tsumugi, from our collections.
Extremely high level, Surikomi-kasuri Kikko pattern white Yuki-tsumugi.
Before 2000, it was more common to see those thoroughly patterned Kikko or Jyuji kasuri Yuki-tsumugi.
But now we cannot see such quality anymore. We still have few limited artisans who can do the finest Surikomi-kasuri.
Now is the last chance to take the newly-woven world most precious silk textile in your hand. We, Hirota Tsumugi can hear your custom-design order of Yuki tsumugi with Surikomi-kasuri, so please feel free to inquire us.